Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp

Well we have done the unthinkable...well at least in our minds. We have just returned from a grueling 7 day trek to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) in the middle of winter where temperatures reached well below 15 degrees C at an elevation of 4130 meters (13,549 feet). Armed with our down jackets and fleece thermals, rented down sleeping bags (for minus 5 degrees C), backpack, and hiking poles, and enough toblerone chocolate for just one of us, we began our journey in Pokhara at 6:00am where we caught the local bus to Naya Pul. After a winding 2 hour bus ride, we were dropped off at the "town" of Naya Pul where we dined on delicious fried rice donuts, bean soup, and Chai. We walked into the Annapurna registrar and got our passes stamped, and headed straight to Ghorepani, a small village town that rests at the base of Poon Hill. We had originally intended to get our feet wet by trekking for 3-4 days to Poon Hill, which is a 3200 meter (10,498 feet) peak with stunning views of the Himalayas. Over the course of our first day treking, however, we happened to get lost, and soon realized at 1pm that we were no where near Ghorepani, but closer to Ghandruk, a town nestled in the hills 15 km from Ghorepani. Oops!

Well it looks like we are going to Ghandruk instead :)

On our lost way to Ghandruk we walked past a small village where a little boy fell and cut his leg pretty badly. I cleaned out the wound and placed a bandaid over it with some All Pursose Salve, and prayed that he wouldn't get an infection. Honestly, if we had some sutures we would have stitched him up because the laceration was almost an inch long and 10 mm wide. A wound an ER doc would have a field day with.

The village children continued to ask for "sweet," which we had in the form of raisens and chocolate, but didn't want to give out because apparently this supports begging behavior according to Lonely Planet. We did have some pens and Canadian pins on us, so we gave all 5 children a pin and where on our way.

Out of the woodworks children from neighboring villages surrounded us as they must have heard about the white people giving out medicine and pins. We ignored them continued on our way because we knew we had to make up ground for getting lost.

In about an hour we decided it was time to get directions because we hadn't passed any other trekkers in quite some time. I waited with the packs as Briana tried to find some English speaking villager. Very quickly more children found me and asked if I wanted to play volleyball, which I relunctantly did (I was not in the mood to play volleyball with these 12 year old boys as I was frustrated about getting lost). The boys where like professionals spiking the ball over the net almost taking my head off! I couldn't believe how intense our little game had become, and I eagerly awaited Briana's return so we could start trekking again. Briana did return with the news that we where in fact lost, and that we should get going. We gave the children our last Canadian pins, and were escorted by a very sweet 10 year old girl through the terraces to the main path leading to Ghandruk.

What a day. We arrived exhausted at our guest house at 4pm with some of the most beautiful views ever to greet us. We slept like babies.

We met an English couple at our guest house who had just arrived from Tibet, and got to know them fairly well over the next 6 days as we trekked together from guest house to guest house. They were an inspiration to us and a motivating factor to make it to Annapurna Base Camp. We are so happy they encouraged us to join them.

Over the next 3 days we made our way to ABC with the temperature dropping steadily and our energy plummeting. Briana actually developed mild to moderate altitude sickness on our way up to ABC, which rests at 4130 meters (13,459 feet). Her head was pounding and every step she took drained her energy reserves, and we were lucky that nothing serious happened at ABC. In fact, we met a English fellow on the way up to ABC that developed severe altitude sickness with vomiting, and had to be transported to lower elevation in the middle of the night! It's amazing at this high elevation how much energy it takes to move 30 feet in front of you.

When we woke the following morning, however, all bouts with fatigue, muscle aches, and headaches were quickly forgotten as the views of the Annapurna peaks blew our minds away. The sunrise was spectacular with golden orange hues draping the magestic giants standing strong in the cold wind. No wonder people worship these godly beings...

I will never forget that moment.

We made it back to Naya Pul in one peice in 3 days including a quick stay at a hotsprings to rejuvinate our body, mind, and spirit. Today we are so sore and banged up we had difficulty getting to and from our 4th floor hotel room. Room service please?

This week long trek in the Himalays has been the highlight of our 2 month trip. Being out in Nature watching the sun rise and set everyday, and trekking along ancient landscapes has been priceless. This region of Nepal has changed dramatically since tourism became big here in the 70's, yet the trekking sector still feels real to many who make it out here. If there were not teahouses along the way to rest our aching bodies and feed us warm food and drink, there is no way that we would have made it to ABC alive and well. I am so grateful for the villagers and the locals who work at MBC and ABC in particular...they literally saved us with their kind hospitality in freezing temperatures.

The Himalays are indeed beautiful and the people too. Please come here before Nepal reaches political disaster (if it hasn't already). It is a very unstable country politically and economically, yet, here you will meet the most genuine people in the world (in my opinion of course). When I say genuine I mean those who have absolutely nothing in value in terms of food, clothing, or shelter, but carry the biggest hearts around. The smiles on these Nepali people can bring tears to your eyes as they are so happy with what they have, which is typically nothing. Those reading my blog who have traveled here know exactly what I am talking about. The people of Nepal are messengers of love.

Well our trip is coming to an end soon. We are planning on coming home a little early (trying to fly out on the 15th of Feb.) due to dissappearing funds :) But it's also time to return home and begin a new chapter of our lives. We are ready to settle down in Vancouver.

Much love to all of you on this gorgious day in Pokhara, Nepal.